Le secteur textile est en 4ème position en termes d’impact environnemental au niveau de l’Union Européenne. Alors, comment rendre l’industrie textile plus durable et circulaire ?
L’Europe est pionnière dans les travaux scientifiques relatifs au Passeport Produit Numérique dans le domaine textile. Cet outil numérique sera en mesure de fournir, outre les détails sur la composition des textiles, des renseignements sur les sites de production, les procédés de fabrication, ainsi que leurs répercussions environnementales et sociales. Ces informations seront destinées tant aux consommateurs qu’aux acteurs industriels et aux autorités afin de suivre les produits depuis leur fabrication jusqu’à leur fin de vie. Il s’agit d’un outil crucial visant à garantir la transparence et la traçabilité des produits textiles, en réponse à l’enjeu majeur de l’économie circulaire.
Le Passeport Produit Numérique (PPN) relève le défi. Il vise à collecter des données sur le cycle de vie des textiles afin d’aider les entreprises de mode et les consommateurs à prendre des décisions plus durables.
En 2023, le Parlement Européen, par le biais du Panel for the Future of Science and Technology (STOA), a sollicité une étude concernant les potentialités du Passeport Numérique pour les produits textiles.
Pantxika Ospital, Docteure consultante spécialiste traçabilité, après 3 années de thèse sur le sujet du Passeport numérique, au sein d’e-SCM, en collaboration avec la Chaire BALI, et Jérémy Legardeur, professeur à l’école d’ingénieur ESTIA, ont réalisé cette étude.
Les conclusions de celle-ci ont été exposées le jeudi 14 mars au Parlement Européen à Strasbourg.
Cette étude, consacrée au Passeport Numérique des Produits (PPN) dans l’industrie textile, est réalisée dans le cadre de la stratégie de l’Union Européenne pour des textiles durables et circulaires. Elle examine le potentiel, les besoins, les avantages et les défis liés au déploiement du PPN pour toutes les parties prenantes de la chaîne de valeur du secteur textile européen.
Il en ressort les points clés suivants :
Vous pouvez visionner le replay de la présentation ici :
e-SCM s’implique au sein de la Chaire Bali qui, depuis plus de 6 ans, réunit des acteurs de l’industrie Textile Mode & Luxe désireux de collaborer pour une mode circulaire, transparente et agile. En tant que spécialiste de la Supply Chain, nous animons le groupe de travail « Traçabilité & Transparence » comme un axe d’innovation vers une mode plus durable et plus performante.
Dans ses travaux de thèse, Pantxika Ospital, consultante « Métier » e-SCM, démontre que le modèle de données nécessaire pour alimenter un Passeport Numérique Produit est aligné avec celui d’une Supply Chain Agile. Il permet de répondre aux enjeux de flexibilité pour rationaliser les approvisionnements dans un contexte économique et conjoncturel tendu et assure une traçabilité de bout en bout des Produits Finis grâce à une auditabilité systématique des processus. C’est bien là qu’est tout l’enjeu de la démarche « Traçabilité & Transparence » qui garantit la conformité aux exigences règlementaires et soutient la transition vers une mode plus responsable et plus performante économiquement.
Le Parlement Européen, en sollicitant ce Rapport, reconnaît l’expertise des travaux de recherche sur le Passeport Numérique menés par e-SCM et encadrés par les enseignants chercheurs de l’ESTIA.
This study has been written by Jérémy Legardeur (Professor, ESTIA Institute of Technology), Dr Pantxika Ospital (Belharra) at the request of the Panel for the Future of Science and Technology (STOA) and managed by the Scientific Foresight Unit, within the Directorate-General for Parliamentary Research Services (EPRS) of the Secretariat of the European Parliament.
Executive summary :
Textile and fashion industries worldwide are facing a triple crisis encompassing ecological, economic, and social fields. To address these challenges and meet consumer demand for transparency, this study discusses the possible deployment of a European digital product passport (DPP). The goal would be to enhance traceability, circularity, and transparency throughout the entire lifecycle of fashion products. By offering detailed information about each product throughout its lifecycle, a DPP could promote sustainability and circular practices.
This research aligns with this necessary transition within the textile and fashion sector, which aims at stimulating and accelerating the dynamics of circularity and sustainability. Applying new information and communication technologies (NICTs) can facilitate the twin (ecological and digital)
transition that the EU hopes to achieve.
However, the effective implementation of a DPP requires a comprehensive understanding of the complexities within the textile supply chain and the full digitisation of industry processes. The garment supply chain operates as a multifaceted network with numerous tiers and a buyer-driven
production approach. Retailers focus on marketing and selling apparel, while manufacturing involves a diverse array of entities worldwide, each with unique functional capacities. This diversity in capabilities leads to varying sourcing models, which, in turn, complicates traceability for buyers.
Consequently, there is a lack of comprehensive information for consumers to make informed purchasing decisions and to improve product sorting and optimisation of materials at the end of their life.
To develop a possible generic DPP model for the textile sector, we employed a methodology based on a bottom-up approach called grounded theory. This approach integrates data from various sources, ensuring a comprehensive understanding of the complexities involved in creating an
effective DPP for the textile industry. Our aim is to define the concept of a DPP and to analyse the information required at each stage of the product lifecycle, identifying the challenges and stakeholders involved.
We integrated data from diverse sources to inform our approach, including transparency initiatives within the fashion sector, insights from testimonials and experiences within the textile industry, and the regulatory and scientific framework surrounding DPP. We define the DPP as follows: a DPP is the combination of an identifier, the granularity of which can vary throughout the lifecycle (from a batch to a single product), and data characterising the product, processes and stakeholders, collected and used by all the stakeholders involved in the circularity process.
We identified 11 categories of possible DPP aims and contributions: informing consumers, informing companies, managing resource flows, promoting circularity, sustainability indicator management, market surveillance, track and trace after sales, compliance with regulations, product
end-of-life management, commercial competitive edge, product authentication.
We also identified 8 categories of stakeholders (people or companies who could be involved or interested in using a DPP): supply chain companies, brands, retailers, authorities, certification and assessment companies, circularity operators, media, consumers.
Once the products were identified by reference (‘unique’ or ‘batch’) and brand, we identified 16 categories of information and concepts that could be contained in the DPP : product description, composition, supply chain, transport, documentation, environmental impact, social impact, impact
on animals, circularity, health impact, information on the brand, communication/identification media, granularity, quantity, costs, after-sale tracking and tracing, customer feedback.
Following our research work, we defined a first version of a generic model of DPP based on the lifecycle model representation to include all the information previously mentioned.
We organised a consultation and collected feedback about this model during an online survey composed of 10 questions. The survey involved 81 textile sector stakeholders and experts from almost 20 European countries. They validated that most of the information concerning the supply chain and finished products categories should be included in a DPP, with a doubt persisting concerning the identification of transformation and transport companies. Costs are not considered an information to include for a majority of respondents. There is less consensus about information to be included regarding the distribution stage. Customer identification should also not be included concerning the usage stage. For the end of life, category, all information mentioned should be included.
Based on the results of the survey, we propose a step-by-step scenario and policy options for the deployment of a DPP in three phases :
Phase 1. Deployment of a ‘minimal & simplified DPP’ for textiles on a short-term horizon of 2027. This proposed ‘minimal and simplified DPP’ is mainly based on dissemination of mandatory information, completed with additional information that would be useful for lifecycle analysis.
Phase 2. Deployment of an ‘advanced DPP’ for textiles on a mid-term horizon of 2030. This ‘advanced DPP’ could be progressively extended to other stakeholders with more information collected all along the lifecycle, based on the findings from the first phase and the results of experimentation.
Phase 3. Deployment of a ‘full circular DPP’ for textiles on a long-term horizon of 2033. During this last phase, a ‘full circular DPP’ could be fully deployed to promote circularity in the textile sector.
The main objectives of the policy options concerning a possible textile DPP are :
